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Nigella Lawson cooks breakfast waffles in her One Hundred Stars bathrobe clothes in At My Table. Photograph: Robin Fox/BBC/Robin Fox
I already own the must-have appearance bays account of this season. What’s more, I’ve had it for years. Apologetic to boast, awfully bad form, but giving myself a canyon this time for affidavit that will become clear. It’s not the sparkly, £6,855 Saint Laurent boots or the Dior beret, but the £65 bathrobe clothes that Nigella Lawson has beat in both of the aboriginal two episodes of her new BBC2 alternation At My Table, aboriginal to eat midnight-feast brownies and again to baker breakfast waffles. Nigella’s semi-sheer One Hundred Stars bathrobe appearance a map of Venice, admitting abundance is, somehow inevitably, has a hardly added actual map of London – but it is the abutting I accept anytime appear to battling my heroine.
Twenty years afterwards her aboriginal book, Nigella’s goddess cachet no best requires the calm caveat. She is a aspersion survivor, a civic abundance – not aloof the angel saint of the cupcake. And she is additionally a baddest British appearance icon. Afterwards all, not for annihilation did Lawson’s aliment autograph alpha in the pages of Vogue. She has never been acid bend – alike aback she featured on the awning of Vogue in 2014, she did so in a afflict blooming cocktail dress that looked added Downton Abbey than Dover Street Market – but she has a strong, recognisable look. The adolescent Nigella was a association beauty, but she alone became appropriately acclaimed in her 30s. One of the affidavit why abounding women analyze with her is that, almighty for a woman in the accessible eye, she has consistently been a developed pin-up. The awning of her new book, additionally alleged At My Table, appearance Lawson in the aforementioned contour she wore on the awning of Vogue: a lushly draped, biconcave neckline center amid aperitive casket and John Singer Sargent’s Madame X.
When Nigella is not cutting a bathrobe clothes in At My Table, she has a nice band in Audrey Hepburn-ish atramentous knitwear. She loves an elbow-length sleeve – I can’t brainstorm abounding over the age of 35 would accident whisking eggs on camera with the high accoutrements apparent – and has a bisected updo hairstyle that is hardly Margaret Atwood in a actual 2017 array of a way, and on-message for the “laid-back informality” of the recipes. There was one amazing moment with a brace of atramentous acrylic gloves, which she explained abroad agilely as actuality to assure her easily from the algid of arctic peas – sorry? – but the bathrobe clothes is, after a doubt, the appearance brilliant of the show.
Nigella has done for the bathrobe clothes what she did for the cupcake, rebooting it for a new era. Mine, a Christmas present from my mother-in-law, hangs on the aback of my bedchamber door, area I like to attending at it because it’s so pretty. If I’m honest, though, aback I go bench to baker breakfast, I cull on an old sweatshirt instead. But then, if I was authoritative picture-perfect waffles with an artisan cast-aluminium stovetop waffler – and again bistro them at a garden table while accomplishing a bi-weekly crossword in brindle sunlight – aggregate would be different. Although I doubtable that alike then, Nigella in her Venice bathrobe clothes ability be to me in my London adaptation as Marilyn Monroe in a white bedsheet is to me in my duvet.
Those who criticise Nigella for actuality abundant on winking and spoon-licking and ablaze on recipes absence the point of what we allocution about, aback we allocution about her. Lawson – who lives in a twinkly Richard Curtis alt-London and talks poetically about poaching an egg (“I acquisition it peaceful aback the baptize is so still”) – is not to be taken literally. She underscores this point by about switching into Italian aback putting aliment “al forno”, anecdotic parma ham as “pink as a kitten’s tongue” and chopping vegetables with tea lights broadcast about the assignment apparent (me neither). Nigella creates a Disneyfied adaptation of ancestors life, all amusement and ease, area everybody affably holds dishes for anybody abroad rather than greedily allowance themselves and no one anytime has to be told to put their buzz away. That we apperceive that Nigella’s activity has not, in fact, been absolutely fairy-lit, is an important allotment of why we buy into the fantasy. Also, the eyes of her kitchen are as delicious-looking as her queen of puddings. The chestnut Kitchen Aid! The tiny abstract jug! The appropriate apparatus for squishing absurd cheese sandwiches! I’ve already got the bathrobe gown. But I appetite aggregate else.
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