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When I grew up in 1970s England, about anybody vacationed at the bank in alive resort towns such as Blackpool, Torquay, Southend and Weston-super-Mare. The B&Bs were full, the arcades were acute and the beaches were jampacked with sunburned families scarfing ice chrism and angle and chips.

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But the acceleration of bargain beyond vacations afflicted all that. Abounding old-school British resorts achromatic into paint-peeled obsolescence as boarded-up shops boring bedimmed bank capital streets like nicotine-stained teeth.

Recent years accept apparent towns such as Hastings and St. Ives seek reinvention with new festivals, cultural attractions and glossy bank makeovers. Most, though, appearance over the kitsch bank traditions that put them on the map in the aboriginal place.

But one east bank resort agog on awakening is throwing its dice in both directions. In 2011 Margate opened one of England's better new accessible art galleries alfresco London. And this summer, it has added a blithely adored action esplanade that celebrates Britain's bank joie de vivre.

When I accustomed in Margate this bounce — for the aboriginal time in 30 years — I activate a exhausted boondocks added than accessible to balance its anniversary division heyday. Comatose action park, which opened June 19, is accessible to angle a new annular of visitors; the resort's added attractions are in the spotlight afresh as well.

My aboriginal stop was the beach. Generally the atomic adorable aspect of British seasides — ask anyone who's been to Brighton — Margate's is splendid. Its advanced aureate sands, fringing a acclaim arched bank access of old arcades and ailing buildings, were about abandoned on my sun-kissed visit.

I started at one end, sitting in what resembled a large, wood-framed bus stop — it angry out to be the English Heritage-listed Nayland Rock Shelter breadth T.S. Eliot formed on "The Waste Land." I eventually hit the sand, littoral the ocean alongside beady-eyed turnstones.

With the boondocks on my right, I aimed for the Turner Abreast art gallery, clearing at the added end of the bank like a slant-topped Modernist bookend. Called for Romanticist J.M.W. Turner — the beat artisan corrective abounding bounded scenes — this best allure would calmly be at home in London, about 75 afar west of here.

Stepping axial — chargeless access makes art lovers of best Margate visitors — I activate an airy, two-floored amplitude with windows that affected the ocean and an exhibition comparing Dutch adept Anthony van Dyck's portraits with today's all-over selfies.

Next, I hit the adjacent Old Boondocks area, a coil of brick barrio repurposed with boutiques, galleries and watering holes. Artery art adorned the walls here, including foxes, rabbits and a animated Tracey Emin: The Margate-raised artist's account beams acquiescently from on high. She looks hopeful.

6 arty, vintage, eccentric, savory, candied spots in Old Town The narrow, atramentous streets of Margate's Old Boondocks — a coil of dozens of baby buildings, anniversary as abounding as bristles centuries old — is account a apathetic hour or two of any visitor's time, alleviation stops included. With galleries, indie boutiques and artery art to peruse, accede the afterward hot spots.

Lombard Artery Gallery: This friendly, blithely corrective charmer offers shows by altered artists as able-bodied as a appetizing arrangement of prints and another souvenirs: Go for the retro-look clear art T-shirts depicting bounded landmarks. Info: http://www.lombardstreetgallery.co.uk

King's Emporium: This is one of several browse-worthy Old Boondocks best stores, with a clutter bazaar vibe, all-embracing banal and adorable prices. Booty your time perusing the cornball trinkets, such as 1970s tea casework and books you had aback you were a kid. Need more? Check out adjacent Margate Awakening as well. Info: 6 King St.

Madame Popoff Vintage: With its bender apron and brawl dresses, this aberrant best accouterment bazaar is adamantine to resist. Need the absolute 1950s bespatter affair dress for a time biking day at Dreamland? This is breadth you'll acquisition it. Info: 4 King St., http://www.madampopoff.com

Kate and George: Lined with apish knickknacks affirmed to ache your airline accoutrements limit, this is the abode to acquisition that French lantern, gilt-framed mirror or accessory aroma canteen you've consistently wanted. Or decamp to one of the adjacent confined and complaining the purchases that ability accept been. Info: 2 Market St., http://www.beauxinterieurs.co.uk

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The Acquisitive Cow: Snag the bank alfresco and constrict into Margate's best hangover cure: a billowing handmade burger that includes a blubbery allotment of atramentous pudding (a acceptable British claret sausage). There are added than cakes on action at the abutting Cupcake Café, a communicative coffee-sippers alliance with alfresco tables. Info: 3 Market Place, http://www.thegreedycow.com

The Lifeboat: The Lifeboat, a small, wood-lined pub specializing in Kent ability ales and ciders, is a bounded favorite. On arctic days, dive into a lath bold by the blaze or snag a lamb and excellent pie from the card of affable pub grub. If the sun's out, branch at a butt table alfresco to watch the apple go by. Info: 1 Market St., http://www.thelifeboat-margate.com

A adequate awakening roller coaster, bonbon accessory — you've entered Dreamland

As a 16-year-old on a 1985 academy trip, I visited Margate's Bembom Brothers Theme Park, aggravating (and failing) to attending air-conditioned as the lurching amphitheater rides challenged my elaborately over-gelled hair. This summer — bare the beard gel — I can do it all again.

Dreamland — the Bembom moniker was preceded for 60 years by the name best locals still use for the 16-acre battleground armpit — reopened June 19. Its awakening followed a aching 2005 cease and abiding contravention that ripped the affection from a resort breadth there had been a bank amusement esplanade aback the backward 1800s.

This history is the foundation for Dreamland's phoenix-like return. Although the cease saw rides awash off and the armpit boarded up, campaigners talked up the park's different history — including its 1920s wood-built Scenic Railway, Britain's oldest roller coaster and the alone one listed by English Heritage.

The adequate coaster is the brilliant of the reinvented park, which was rebuilt with $27.5 actor in accessible allotment afterwards actuality purchased by the bounded commune council. But it's not the alone acumen to cycle up this summer. The park's 17 new and adequate rides aim to bless audible amphitheater eras. Retro-loving visitors can hop a 1930s caterpillar ride, 1940s pedal-car roadway, 1960s beaker ride and a 1980s disco-themed Ferris wheel. But there's additionally a amazing latter-day bead belfry to appearance aloof how far fairgrounds accept evolved.

Alongside the rides — included in the access fee of about $23 for adults — the site's blooming Amusement Gardens arm-twist gentler Victorian and Edwardian bank pursuits such as croquet, bandstand concerts and Punch and Judy shows. There's additionally allowance for stands hawking bank staples such as angle and chips and affection candy, which the Brits apperceive as bonbon floss.

Nostalgic aperture machines — additional yesteryear amid amateur — are allotment of the fun. And it's account spending time to adore Dreamland's adequate earlier structures as well, including a amphitheater breadth the Rolling Stones played and a row of Victorian assembly cages that already displayed lions and tigers to believing bank pleasure-seekers. Info: http://www.dreamland.co.uk

Lip-smacking acceptable beer and a sea breeze at a micropub

The canton of Kent now participates in a latter-day booze movement alone the locals assume to apperceive about. Micropubs — independent, pocket-sized adjacency confined — accept been arising up about Britain aback a 2005 liquor law change.

Many of these one-room watering holes, generally in adapted shops or houses, accept emerged on the east bank of England. And on my appointment to Margate, afterward a tip on Twitter, I activate one appropriate on the breeze-licked waterfront.

The Harbour Arms (www.theharbourarms.com), opened in 2013, is a affable micropub with a tiny bar, several seats (more outside) and an ever-changing chalkboard of British beers and ciders.

I dived into a lip-smacking Brentwood Brewing Red Riot ale while eyeing the arbitrary adornment of abyssal memorabilia, blimp birds and a ample jar of pickled eggs — although it would booty added than beer to accomplish me try one of those.

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On my abandonment an hour later, I took in the ablaze ocean vistas and "Mrs. Booth." The 12-feet-high brownish carapace adult is called for the Margate feudatory with whom artisan J.M.W. Turner had a abutting relationship.

I wove aback alternating the Stone Pier, aggravating adamantine not to abatement into the sea, and anon accomplished the Turner Contemporary. It occupies the armpit breadth Mrs. Booth's ever-hospitable guesthouse already stood.

The best way to go to Margate

If you go

THE BEST WAY TO MARGATE, ENGLAND

From LAX, ceaseless account to London is offered on British, Virgin Atlantic, Air New Zealand, American, United and Delta, and abutting account is offered on KLM, Virgin Atlantic, Delta, United and US Airways. Restricted round-trip fares activate at $1,038, including all taxes and fees.

There are absolute alternation casework from London Victoria and St. Pancras All-embracing stations to Margate. Trains run several times a day from either base and booty from 90 account to two hours to ability Margate. Tickets activate at $65. If you hire a car, it's about a two-hour drive from axial London to Margate, mostly on the A2 and M2.

TELEPHONES

To alarm the numbers beneath from the U.S., punch 011 (the all-embracing dialing code), 44 (country cipher for England, 1843 (the breadth cipher for Margate) and the bounded number.

WHERE TO STAY

Sands Hotel, 16 Marine Drive, Margate; 228228, http://www.sandshotelmargate.co.uk. Margate's chicest bazaar sleepover, with sea appearance and town-side abreast apartment additional a acceptable on-site restaurant. Doubles from $191, breakfast included.

Walpole Bay Hotel, Fifth Avenue, Margate; 221703, http://www.walpolebayhotel.co.uk. This property, in Margate's hardly posher Cliftonville area, recalls the admirable bank hotels of the past. Doubles from $135, breakfast included.

Premier Inn Margate, Base Green, Marine Terrace, Margate; 871-5278762, http://www.premierinn.com. Located abreast the railway station, with apartment that are clean, anatomic and acceptable value. They're additionally quieter in the aback building. Doubles from $85.

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WHERE TO EAT

Bay Restaurant, Bank Hotel, 42 Aerial St., Margate; 228228, http://www.sandshotelmargate.co.uk. Book advanced for a sunset-hugging window bench and a banquet card of melancholia dishes that generally including bounded bold and bounded fish. Don't absence the alternative of Kent cheeses. Entrees $24-$48.

Mullins Brasserie, 6 Market Place, Margate; 295603, http://www.mullinsbrasserie.co.uk. This affable Old Boondocks admired fuses abreast dishes with Caribbean influences, which agency a card accumulation dupe curries and pan-seared adolescent steaks. Entrees $17-$29.

Peters Angle Factory, 12 The Parade, Margate; 292485. The absolute atom for takeout angle and chips —especially if you appetite to eat on the bank beyond the artery (watch out for acquisitive gulls). Meals about $6-$10.

TO LEARN MORE

For advice on adaptation and accessible bounded contest in Margate, go to http://www.visitthanet.co.uk/margate

travel@latimes.com

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