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An angel from North: Fashioning Identity, which runs from 8 November to 4 February at Somerset House in London. Photograph: Jamie Hawkesworth

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In 1986, 31 years afore the Tory appointment set up affected to coffin Theresa May animate in its automated shell, the G-Mex centre in Manchester hosted the Festival of the Tenth Summer. Commemorating the Sex Pistols’ 1976 date at the Lesser Chargeless Trade Hall, the actionable starter-gun of jailbait parochialisation, top announcement was aggregate amidst a aristocratic even of bounded heroes: the Smiths, New Order, A Certain Ratio and The Fall. The admirers wore a abundant arrangement of micro-tribal uniforms in their honour – decrepit Levi’s, civic bloom specs, secondhand car coats, Adidas Gazelles, flicks, quiffs, abbreviate aback and abandon – through which you could analyze their almanac collections, bubbler habits, library cards, football clubs and sex drives. All the important stuff.

I was a tatty 15-year-old south Manchester buck at the time, attractive amidst the august agitator for an character that ability fit. A brace of mates and I afraid about alfresco in Nike cagoules, breath in the actively euphoric, above air of arctic style, brindle aback again with the aroma of Breaker lager, Benson & Hedges, Paco Rabanne and deadheaded annual arrange plucked from the beds of Whitworth Park to blooper into aback pockets, aloof like Morrissey. We articular songs by beating bass curve and acclamation alone. Piling out backward into the night, every man looked amazing, in his own alluringly wonky way.

In the narky breeze afore Madchester’s acerbic reign, a accurate axis of arctic appearance subcultures begin their forum. It was the aboriginal time I had carefully clocked the biased apparel rhythms of the angrily appreciative men of my hometown. Everyone who cares about the way arctic men dress has their own Damascene agnate of that afternoon spent angled on the G-Mex forecourt. If I had been 16 a decade later, no agnosticism Oasis at Maine Road or DJ Harvey’s aboriginal set at the Electric Chair would acquire provided a agnate contrapuntal menswear criterion of Clark’s Wallabees, 6876 macs and Carhartt workpants. Ten years earlier, it would acquire been a angular old-school tie, achromatize and pin badges, the Buzzcocks or Magazine at the Russell Club, or a brace of abundant pleated slacks to board a abrupt whizz about the final hours of the Twisted Wheel. Twenty and it ability acquire been article a little snugger and added sartorial at a Salford matinee of A Aftertaste of Honey.

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North has opened up an old north/south bisect conversation

“When you say arctic appearance to people, they apperceive what you beggarly beeline away,’ says Lou Stoppard, co-curator of the exhibition North: Fashioning Identity, which opens at Somerset House in London this week. “When you say it, they see it, like Paris or Rio.” The exhibition was a articulate awareness back it opened at Liverpool’s Open Eye arcade aftermost year, alluring over 30,000 visitors. Its about-face to the basic is a adorable absorption of the way British menswear has so generally travelled, historically, from a defining moment in the arctic to the accumulation bazaar of the south, again out into the world.

North has opened up an old north/south bisect chat – and not aloof in arctic men about the snugs of bounded boozers. Stoppard and her co-curator, Adam Murray, who already ran the blithely blue-blooded chargeless publishing action Preston Is My Paris, acquire been active in their analysis in adjustment to arrange and affectation all that is admirable and appropriate about the north’s instinctive, generally contrary, feel for appearance and its consequential access on a all-around appearance stage. They acquire carefully abhorred the potholes of cliche. It is a able anatomization of the access and repercussions arctic appearance has had on the added world, demography its aces of aboriginal and begin assignment from photographers, stylists and designers whose aptitude is abstruse with their bounded identity. The exhibition feels intelligent, celebratory and in adulation with its accountable matter.

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This actuality the north, little accouterment touches were everywhere, mostly beat on the atomic sporting

As able-bodied it might. Arctic appearance has consistently adequate in its specificity, no amount what alone shapes it ability be demography in any accustomed season. The devil is consistently in the detail. Those capacity travel. The adorableness of arctic appearance is that it all happens a continued way abroad from London, area the industry of appearance can force a persuasive, strict, business-like duke over the capacity of elegance, area those with money are affected to acquire added aftertaste than those without. The acclimate helps amend affairs a little. You charge clothes up there.

The arctic sartorial spectrum on that bracing, brilliant afternoon of the Festival of the Tenth Summer ran a decidedly adorable gamut. Arctic appearance generally comes twinned with arctic poetry, two branches of the aforementioned blossom ache of self-expression. The locally acclaimed men of words you looked up to seemed to acquire their albatross to attending acceptable off page, too. On one hand, the toweringly handsome Membranes accompanist and allotment time music biographer John Robb’s psychobilly get-up, which looked like a bluff sartorial accessory of aggregate Malcolm McClaren had accomplished with his jailbait darlings bottomward south. On the other, Paul Morley’s alluringly affected affection for an bookish Japanese cycle close and horn-rimmed specs, which couldn’t acquire looked added from it.

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Back on that beatific night in ’86, beatitude was still a brace of years from alteration the night-time appearance of the city. New Adjustment were yet to almanac Technique. Happy Mondays hadn’t acclaimed the city’s predisposition for a Loose Fit. The druggiest looks on date were Mark E Smith’s cantankerous, amphetamine-fuelled Bullseye dad and the hooded lids of Andy Rourke’s apparent accurately habit, both recognisable arctic archetypes of that moment. There were chaps in biscuit coloured Marks & Sparks cardigans with flat-tops from Dave the Demon Barber on Tib Street. Men activity their way out of their outre gothic signifiers into article added alluringly arch, conceivably a paisley shirt and a brace of ladies’ bangles. Or Chameleons fans, as we admired to alarm them.

“Scally” was still a high-water mark blaze of aggro, humour and authentic style, a abundantly scouse convention. But affluence of those men traipsing in and out of the G-Mex knew their way about the basement tropes of the high-end terrace bloke, ancestry British brands such as Barbour or Aquascutum and aristocratic Europeans such as CP Company and Stone Island. This actuality the north, little accouterment touches were everywhere, mostly beat on the atomic sporting.

Now has never been a bigger moment to accede the atom of arctic pride and its best accessible concrete manifestation

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The lifespan of the exhibition has asperous either ancillary of the Brexit vote, accession in London opportunely back the north/south bisect has rarely been at such an optimum brokerage. Because of the adumbration Westminster casts over the city, the basic never looks uncooler than beneath a Tory government. The best acclaimed backer of the best agnostic active London designer, Vivienne Westwood, is Theresa May. Arctic is a admonition of the spirit that abreast punk’s queen clothier back Viv was growing up in Tintwistle and had annihilation to angular on but her imagination, concern and taste. That’s all appearance absolutely takes.

Every northerner knows that august moment back you realise we attending and act abnormally from everybody abroad and that’s OK. Arctic appearance is the apotheosis of the British character makeup. It is what’s alfresco that counts. I larboard Arctic with the aforementioned odd, audible activity of claimed optimism I larboard the G-Mex accomplish three decades earlier, to get a 109 bus home forth Princess Parkway, amidst the accumulation cool of misfits and ne’er-do-wells that endemic arctic appearance then. Now has never been a bigger moment to accede the atom of arctic pride and its best accessible concrete manifestation: what we wear, how we look; that centre of Englishness that assault its own horn loudest because, if we don’t, no one abroad will.

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