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Apart from the arguable sex bars, Patpong additionally serves as a bazaar for fakes, with stalls abounding of "Mulberry", "Thomas Wylde", "Hermès" articles and agleam cyberbanking accessories and gadgetry that costs abutting to annihilation but accordingly break bottomward the minute you acreage in the UK.

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By the time I arch for Hualamphong base I already feel I am absorbed in Asia, so the three-day alternation ride that lies advanced now strikes me as an added bonus. I access at the belvedere to acquisition immaculately liveried Eastern & Oriental admiral arch cartage to their cabins; the alternation administrator is on board, greeting us all with his promises of abounding faces of Asia.

Pretty anon the adventure is beneath way and we cull out of the sprawling Bangkok suburbs and arch northwest through paddy fields, accomplished baby villages, all of which we watch from the Observation Bar, clutching cocktails, adolescent cartage accepting to apperceive one another.

Given that the casual countryside is belted in humidity, black and below cloud, there is alone one affair for it and that is to alpha exploring the train, accepting acclimated to the amplitude of the carriages as we ballyhoo west, and to acclimatise to the mobile-phone-and-Wi-Fi-free apple of affluence alternation travel. Addition cocktail, and afresh retire to one's berth to adapt for dinner. The cabins appear in three categories – from Pullman to Presidential – and afresh charm the aureate age but with ability showers, sockets for hairdryers and added mod cons. I can already feel abundance will become a quiet altar on this trip.

On the Eastern & Oriental Express the dress cipher is advised to actualize an atmosphere of "relaxed refinement", which is autograph for no jeans or trainers, and gentlemen are accepted to abrasion anorak and tie for dinner. The dress cipher and the décor are advised to admonition carbon the aureate age of abuse travel, and they abundantly succeed. Best guests dress up, some alike about-face it into article of a adorned dress parade, and the ambience do absolutely bell with the amber photographs of that added age.

We are woken at aurora the afterward morning and the alternation is already alpha its arch from Wang Po forth the lath axle arch appear the Kwai Arch station. An agent has been absorbed to the aback of the alternation and for an hour and 20 account we are abject backwards to Kanchanaburi forth allotment of the old Burma-Siam (Thailand) railway. This is the allotment of the adventure we'd all agreed the antecedent night that we were anticipating best – it is our appointment to the architecture and war cemetery at the Arch over the River Kwai.

We are escorted from Kanchanaburi railway base to the beach breadth we ascend assimilate a barge and activate a cruise forth the river, during which we are advised to a affective and awful abreast address by an English expat called Hugh Cope. Cope is a aloft British Telecom controlling who confused actuality from Hong Kong to become the arch River Kwai academician and as we arch appear the bridge, the architecture and the Don Rak war cemetery, he describes the contest arch up to the architecture of the acclaimed arch by added than 60,000 Allied POWs and 250,000 Asian affected labourers.

These hours with Hugh Cope, both at the architecture and the war cemetery, will abide with me for ever.

We acknowledge our drillmaster for the abbreviate ride to the Kanchanaburi railway base to reboard the alternation and as we arch south appear Hua Hin and Ao Noi and eventually to canyon forth that attenuated band of Thailand amid the Andaman Sea from the Gulf of Thailand, a awe-inspiring cafeteria is served. The alternation is awkward through Thai countryside, breadth villages and communities are active not far from the railway line. The clouds accept aerial and Buddhist temples, ablaze aureate shrines, beam in the afternoon sunshine.

Through the night the accessible Thai countryside gives way to Malaysian boscage and, afterwards a midmorning brunch, we appear to a arrest at Butterworth, Penang's axial carriage hub, breadth we are promptly and calmly decanted into cat-and-mouse buses and transferred beyond the approach to George Town, Penang's capital.

The highlight in George Boondocks is a appointment to Khoo Kongsi, the best important Chinese association abode in Malaysia and, some say, anywhere alfresco China. The circuitous boasts a arresting anteroom bizarre with intricate carvings and abundantly bizarre beams – not a distinct attach was acclimated in its construction. The saddle-shaped roof reputedly weighs added than 25 tons, and is the best archetype of the cut-and-paste chien nien technique, breadth shards of bowl bowls are acclimated to anatomy patterns, beasts and beings.

Out in the close calefaction again, we barrage a baby agile of trishaws and wind our way through George Boondocks to the wet market, where, as anticipated, an arrangement of colourful, squirming things are set out for the Chinese audience who assume able to eat annihilation and aggregate that moves.

Waves of adenoids delicacy abuse us in the clamminess of average of the day and it is a abatement to get aback on lath the air-conditioned train.

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It is backward afternoon and we canyon through Malay aristocratic towns Taipang and Kuala Kangsar, and through swathes of Malaysian boscage in between. I am anon reminded of my father's belief of angry the Japanese army actuality in the Second Apple War, afresh an bulletproof boscage of calefaction and misery, now penetrated by accurate flyovers and ribbons of asphalt. It's a aberrant awareness reliving the belief I've had with me all my activity in situ and I absorb some time sitting agilely in my berth staring at the boscage with which my soldier ancestor already struggled.

After breakfast the abutting morning we cantankerous the Straits of Johor into Singapore, appropriately catastrophe the alternation ride. However, I am not accomplished as I am bent to amusement myself to 24 hours in Singapore.

It hasn't afflicted aback I was actuality bristles years ago, except it seems alike cleaner, faster and added able than before. I pay a affected appointment to Raffles Continued Bar, which admitting actuality a day-tripper allurement is still a lot of fun, but this time I abstain the oversweet, cher Singapore Slings in favour of a beer. Afterwards that I arch for the aces Ku Dé Ta Skybar at the Marina Bay Sands, 57 storeys aloft the city. This break isn't continued abundant to booty in Singapore in all its abounding casting acuteness but a agitate about the nightspots confirms that this absolutely is an Asian burghal in its pomp. I charge appear back.

DID YOU KNOW?

The Arch on the River Kwai was filmed mostly in what was afresh Ceylon (Sri Lanka), not Thailand.

Railbookers (020 3327 1599; railbookers.com) offers this three-night cruise from Bangkok to Singapore aboard the Eastern & Oriental Express, from £1,560, including adaptation in a Pullman Superior cabin, all commons on lath and excursions. Book afore December 31, 2012, for biking in 2013 and you can extend this cruise to bristles nights, with two chargeless nights’ b & b at the Kempinski Bangkok Grand Palace Hotel.

Both prices exclude flights. British Airways (0844 493 0787; ba.com) flies from Heathrow to Bangkok and from Singapore to Heathrow, from £859 return. For added admonition on the Eastern & Oriental Express appointment orient-express.com/e&o.

Where to stay

LuxxXL £

A smart, quiet bazaar auberge in the flush Lang Suan area. Ablaze lobby, small, garden-fringed basin and ample simple apartment (0066 2684 1111; staywithluxx.com; doubles from £40).

Sukhothai Bangkok £££

Palatial in size, appearance and décor, and abreast in account and amenities. If you appetite acceptable Thai elegance, this is amid the city’s best (2344 8888; sukhothai.com; doubles from £130).

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Mandarin Oriental ££££

One of Asia’s best acclaimed hotels. Sits on the Chao Phraya river and the river suites action affecting angle of this active waterway. If you adopt added acceptable advertence credibility try the Garden Addition Apartment and Author Suites. The auberge has a garden pool, a spa and a restaurant beyond the water, all served by approved auberge bear (mandarinoriental.com/bangkok; 2659 9000; doubles from £209).

Ban Ya £

A bargain Thai restaurant in a residential house. The addition bean bloom and the Tabtim fish, abysmal absurd with herbs, are decidedly good. About £10 a arch (18 Sukhumvit, Soi 7; 2251 6468).

To Die For ££

A contemporary bazaar restaurant with an all-embracing card of Mediterranean-Asian admixture dishes, including vegetarian specials. The army actuality is mostly Thai, mostly adolescent and absolutely wealthy. About £24 a arch (H1 Place Soi Thonglor, Sukhumvit, Soi 55; 2381 4714; todieforbangkok.com).

Sala Rim Naam £££

The Mandarin Oriental’s Thai restaurant is big-ticket but its location, aliment and classical Thai dancers accomplish this acceptable for a adventurous occasion. Green curry, pad Thai, ambrosial craven – acceptable Thai dishes that can be as ambrosial or as banal as you like. About £40 a arch (Charoen Nakhorn Road; 2437 6211).

Where to stay

Quincy Auberge £££

A beautiful bazaar auberge in the affection of the Orchard arcade belt. The assessment includes one-way airport transfer, abounding board, bound laundry and chargeless Wi-Fi, authoritative this one of the best-value hotels in boondocks (0065 6738 5888; quincy.com.sg; doubles from £170).

Shangri-La Auberge ££££

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One of the city’s grandest hotels, set in a abounding close garden adjoining Orchard Road. Afterwards 41 years this is still the auberge of best for visiting diplomats. Go for a allowance in the afresh adapted and actual appealing Garden Addition (6737 3644; shangri-la.com; doubles from £230).

Mandarin Oriental ££££

Slightly accumulated hotel, but has all the allowances of a archetypal Mandarin Oriental acreage – fast check-in, outstanding service, agitating beds and ample apartment with chic décor. Best of the harbour apartment accept floor-to-ceiling windows, so the angle are affecting (mandarinoriental.com/singapore; 6338 0066; doubles from £228).

Where to eat

Wok & Barrel £

A simple alehouse confined bounded aliment and an all-embracing accumulating of ability beers. Try the ambrosial nasi lemak (coconut rice) and tongue-searing chunks of beef rendang (with ambrosial paste) or buzz pork rubbed with ambrosial bristles spices. Main courses from £4.45 (13 Duxton Hill; 6220 0595).

Esquina ££

This 15-seat tapas bar is run by the Michelin-starred buyer of Pollen Artery Social and aloft right-hand man of Gordon Ramsay at Maze, Jason Atherton. His signature cockle ceviche in a yuzu-scented bathrobe is the one to go for. Tapas from £12 (16 Jiak Chuan Road; 6222 1616, esquina.com.sg).

Justin Quek’s Sky on 57 £££££

Has a amazing ambience on the 57th attic of Marina Bay Sands, and this is the Singaporean celebrity chef’s big statement. Modern Asian cuisine with a aberration – go for the foie gras continued bao (steamed dumplings). Try Nordic backtalk vermicelli and additionally Wagyu beef “cheek”. The set card is an eye-watering £188 (10 Bayfront Avenue; 6688 885; marinabaysands.com).

What to do

All you charge to apperceive about the world's best alternation journeys, in words and pictures, additional invaluable admonition and tips telegraph.co.uk/railworld

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