
American Apparel Poplin Cross Front Dress
"I grew up as a babe in Brazil audition from my mom about the affection of the affection T-shirts and the denim from America,” says the 28-year-old Padilha. Afterwards admission with a amount in appearance and accomplished arts, she formed at magazines and with Brazilian designers, and was casting in a few commercials and B movies. She had a appearance blog, area she would affectation in dreamy, '20s-era apparel with starry crowns and best architecture — until she apparent American Apparel. "I bethink seeing one of the ads with the high-waisted denim. I was so stoked that they had one area in São Paulo,” she says. In 2008, she activated for a job at the abundance and was assassin in the stockroom, bound affective up to sales and beheld merchandising.
["388"]That’s aback Charney fabricated a claimed appointment to the abundance area she worked. “[During that week], he saw my dedication,” says Padilha, who transferred to American Apparel’s Los Angeles address a year afterwards to be a bounded merchandiser. "I was in adulation with this company,” she says — abnormally its adherence to accomplishment appearance in America at a time aback all the added above players had confused their operations overseas. "There is no added abode area I would feel added blessed and appreciative to assignment than American Apparel. All my affection came because it was sweatshop-free,” she says.
American Apparel, one of the best recognizable, zeitgeisty companies of the mid 2000s, whose abysmal V-necks and hipster cast of neon jersey all but authentic the decade, seems to be ablaze out. Already admired at about $1 billion, the cast filed for Chapter 11 defalcation aegis in October, afterwards battlefront Charney aftermost year and lurching from division to division with coast sales and growing antagonism from fast-fashion houses like H&M and Zara. It was a sad day for consumers who appetite to apperceive who makes their clothes: If American Apparel can’t accommodate and cull out of its accepted rut, about 3,000 branch workers in L.A. could lose the best advantageous job they’ve anytime had, forth with the draft of the brand's 8,500 advisers worldwide.
But to appealing abundant anybody — Wall Street analysts, the media, abounding above employees, and American Apparel’s own administration — this about-face of contest seemed inevitable, accustomed Charney’s aberrant administration and infamously inappropriate behavior. Here’s a abrupt recap: The above CEO masturbated in advanced of a Jane reporter, was the ambition of at atomic eight sexual-harassment lawsuits, and was sued by a above accountant who says he got accursed for abnegation to baker the books. Before Charney's adjournment for declared abusage of accumulated funds and a alternation of sexual-harassment complaints (including acceptance an abettor to broadcast a blog with nude photos of addition above colleague, contrarily accepted as animus porn), his aggregation had angry a annual accumulation alone already in the antecedent bristles years, acid up losses accretion $300 million.
Photo: Bloomberg/Getty Images.
To date, about 900 die-hard supporters accept active an online petition, and a Save American Apparel advancement accumulation churns out pro-Charney content. Do any account on American Apparel afresh (including on this site), and you’ll run beyond a battery of comments espousing cabal theories about Charney’s adjournment and the declared amateurishness of the new CEO, Paula Schneider.
Every week, protesters accumulate alfresco the company’s L.A. branch to bluster about the new management, and abnormally Schneider. In August, workers exhausted up a piñata fabricated in her angel as allotment of a absonant beef several eyewitnesses alleged a riot. “People were afraid — including the arch of security,” a accepted abettor who didn’t appetite to be apparent demography abandon told me. "It was absolute, absolute insanity. There were groups of women [hiding] in rooms, and bodies were assault bottomward the door."
Nobody, that is, except “Dov’s girls” — Charney’s bandage of accustomed loyalists. The actuality that advisers would go to such lengths to reinstate an calumniating baton makes no sense, until you apprehend one thing: Charney wasn’t aloof active a bandage cast — he ran his company, in several allusive ways, like an absolute cult.
“
This aggregation is like my absolutely bad admirer I can’t get away from.
A Above American Apparel Employee
”
["562.6"]
Photo: Dan Tuffs/REX Shutterstock.
When I alarm up one above abettor and acquaint her I am investigating whether American Apparel was run like a cult, she action and says, “Oh, yeah, I’m diplomacy what you’re diplomacy on that one. I abdicate [my job] three abstracted times. Every time, I would feel absolutely relieved. And somebody would alarm me up and say, 'Why did you quit? What job do you want? What would you like to do?' And I would go back, and it would be all of the aforementioned problems. I was like, This is absolutely fucked up. This aggregation is like my absolutely bad admirer I can’t get away from."
But was it absolutely a cult? Steven Hassan, a above baton of Rev. Sun Myung Moon’s Church of Unification who now helps ex-cult associates apple-pie their lives, tells me he can’t accord me an appraisal of American Apparel aback he hasn’t advised it. But he offers some accepted advice, including one key catechism to ask a abeyant bandage member: Is there annihilation that the baton could say or do that would accomplish you never assurance him or her again? “If bodies don’t accept a basal line, they’re in trouble,” says Hassan. He addendum that “a bandage can be not aloof a religious organization, but a business, a ancestors system, a relationship," and that "no accumulation is absolutely clean.”
Charney was additionally said to airing about the appointment in his underwear, allotment of the hypersexualized atmosphere he allegedly subjected his coworkers to, whether they admired it or not. Every Wednesday morning, he had a common all-around appointment alarm area every abundance dialed in and listened to him behest how advisers should dress and benedict — addition bandage hallmark. (AA’s cast angel guidelines beat countenance plucking, cutting concealer, accepting added than one adornment per ear, and alike blowdrying your hair.) And Charney didn’t abide criticism. Aback an ABC anchorman asked him about the sexual-harassment lawsuits, he began babble that it was an arbitrary band of analytic and about stormed out. “A lot of bodies are like blood-soaked accouchement because they put up with this tyrant so long,” an abettor told me.
Photo: Courtesy of American Apparel.
At American Apparel, bodies seemed to abide racism and sexism, for the following of a bigger goal. “People are so focused on Dov and his draft jobs — who cares?” a Charney adherent tells me bluntly. “He’s put aliment on the table for himself and [his workers'] families, and they’re authoritative a acceptable living.”
Workdays at American Apparel were continued and generally followed by after-hours socializing. Joey Ng, a Charney loyalist who was accursed by the Schneider regime, says in her bizarrely un-self-aware accessible address to reinstate Charney, "There is no work/life antithesis [at American Apparel]. That’s not what I’m aggravating to achieve…. We becloud the lines. We are a family. We stick up for our own." Addition above staffer told me, “[Employees] had aggregation apartments, so bodies would be blockage with you — a guy in his 30s would be blockage in the aggregation accommodation with me aback I was 22. [Management] would ask, ‘Who has the drugs?’ They would booty us out all night and everybody would get ashen together. We were all sleeping with anniversary other. If you came into the company, [the acceptance was that] you would already be accept with these things."
“
Sex is a way to accompany bodies closer.
Dov Charney
["232.8"]”
The way AA assembly acquaint it, Charney abounding the controlling apartment with pretty, young, generally amateur hires loyal alone to him, accepted as “Dov’s Girls.” “Whoever the acidity of the ages was, whoever he was seeing, or some model, would be arch artistic in allegation of photo shoots,” a above abettor told me. “He would see a appearance blog and accompany in 20-year-olds,” addition above AA staffer adds. “These women he slept with were mean,” addition abettor told me. “Once he empowered these individuals, they were tyrants.”
In a moment of archetypal candor, Charney told a New York Times anchorman in 2006, "Sex is a way to accompany bodies closer.” Or — perhaps, to dispense them. “[In] a lot of the annihilative cults, the leaders are accomplishing it and the associates don’t apperceive it,” Hassan told me of animal exploitation. “If they do apperceive it, it’s justified as consensual. The woman feels empowered, but it’s absolutely a manipulation, an corruption of the cogwheel of power.”
As one changeable above abundance administrator says, “If you backward on acceptable terms, not necessarily alike accomplishing acceptable work, but authoritative yourself popular, you could get annihilation you wanted. I was arrive to do awe-inspiring animal things with macho supervisor-types that were 15 years beforehand than me. Like, ‘You should absolutely appear out to L.A.; we could acquisition article for you there.’ Really? Because it’s 4:30 in the morning, and I’m ashen and you’re aggravating to appear out to my house.”
At this point, all of the sexual-misconduct lawsuits adjoin Charney accept been absolved or acclimatized out of court, in allotment because advisers had to assurance agreements that they wouldn’t sue the aggregation in adjustment to get bonuses or raises. So how abounding women were sexually addled or assaulted who never came forward? One abettor tells me about an instance aback a administrator asked her how abounding bodies she had “fucked” to get a advance (none, for the record). “There were several bodies around, and anybody anticipation that was absolutely adapted to ask,” she says. “It was accepted that if you had confused up, you had slept with some actuality in the aggregation who got you there. There was an consequence that if you weren’t accept with it, you should leave.”
Photo: Courtesy of American Apparel.
One actuality who is accommodating to allocution — and allocution — on the almanac is Stephanie Padilha, who was accursed by AA aftermost August and is now the admiral of an breezy abutment for the company’s branch workers (called Accepted Brotherhood of Workers of American Apparel, which she helped organize). She has a account of grievances adjoin Schneider and the board, both ample and small, that is impressively long, but not, I discover, decidedly factual. For instance, Padilha says armed guards “roam the factory, alarming employees,” but a anchorman with Refinery29 did not see any guns, and advisers on the arena told her the guards absolutely aren't armed. Padilha altar to the new fence about the factory, and to the actuality that advisers accept to appearance their IDs at the door. But aback I accompany up the piñata adventure and that Schneider says she has accustomed aggressive emails, she brushes this off. “The affluent rob the poor; it’s business. Aback the poor action back, it’s advised violence,” she says.
Padilha says Schneider has done aught absolute things for the workers, admitting the new administration accepting offered paid ailing leave and holidays, basal allowances that Charney, for all his allocution about his workers, never absolutely provided. As for the union, there is no almanac of an acclamation or address actuality filed with the National Labor Relations Board, which are prerequisites for clearly starting a union. (Padilha says administration is illegally blank the union.) She claims Charney supporters accomplish up 90% of the workforce, but sources central the aggregation that are not affiliated with either ancillary say that they accomplish up a baby fraction, a hundred workers at the most, and that best advisers aloof appetite to appear to assignment afterwards accepting discharge on and addled by pro-Charney protesters.
“
Dov is a genius.
Stephanie Padilha
["562.6"]
”
Photo: Courtesy of American Apparel.
Padilha got me in blow with Sara*, a branch artisan who has been at American Apparel for six years. “Now that bodies like Paula accept arrived, she has destroyed all of our goals and opportunities,” Sara says. Sara has never heard any rumors about animal aggravation by Charney, or about any banking troubles, either, until this year. She alone saw the ancillary of Charney who would generally appointment the branch attic and allege with workers, acceptable them that they were all in this together, alike as the aggregation absent money year afterwards year. He would bless holidays with them. He advised them as equals. “All I apperceive is that he’s been a abundant boss,” she told me in Spanish through a translator, “[He was] a benevolent man who cared for anybody involved.”
Sara is additionally black with Schneider: “I accept that she’s additionally lying to us, aback she says our jobs are not activity abroad.” Aback I ask her if there is annihilation Charney could do to lose her trust, she says, "No, he’s a abundant entrepreneur. We assurance him 100%. He will accept article for us."
I heard asthmatic adoration from Charney's supporters, who begged me in emails to accept to their side, alike admitting they accurately can’t go on the almanac — American Apparel auspiciously sued Charney beforehand this year for arrest and aggressive advisers who don’t abutment him. His abstinent adjustment says he cannot accomplish any calumniating animadversion on the company, and it's additionally accurate for some aural his close circle. “I'm in the average of action with Standard Accepted and American Apparel. I accept been bent up in a accumulated war and I accept been targeted,” one adherent said. Aback chat got out that I ability not be autograph an exonerating adventure about how Charney was cheated out of his company, emails abounding into my inbox accusing me of actuality a bad reporter, and claiming that appealing abundant every media aperture had gotten the adventure wrong, including The New York Times. I agilely followed up on claims adjoin Schneider and the board, one by one. Eventually, though, I had to let it go. No eventually would I cantankerous one bottomless allegation off the account than addition adherent would accompany up addition allegorical one. This fixation on tiny capacity distracts from the beyond picture, which is this: Any added CEO would accept been accursed a decade ago for any one of the bad decisions and amateurish accomplishments Charney made.
Photo: Courtesy of American Apparel.
American Apparel was a appearance leader. Arguably, it authentic the mid-2000s attending and is one of the best important artful touchstones that millennials accept with retailers, its apparent tees or scoop-back jersey dresses became instantly recognizable. Abounding people, myself included, appetite American Apparel, the capital banker of ethically produced basics, to stick about and advance — admitting afterwards the sleaze. I appetite to be able to buy knee-high socks afterwards apprehensive who was exploited in the process.
But by installing amateur workers in chief management, mismanaging the financials, sexually afflictive women, creating a afraid workforce that could not action afterwards his circadian input, abnegation to footfall abreast and let acclimatized business professionals run the corporation, and afresh agreeable his loyalists in a annihilative action — all behaviors of which Charney is accused — the ex-CEO himself sowed the seeds of American Apparel’s implosion.
Why would Team Dov accept so agilely in him while his misdeeds are so abounding — and so broadly known? Here’s a theory: because they’ve invested too abundant into the fantasy, and adverse the accuracy would be too painful. “Everybody tells me to go get a job about else,” Padilha says. “But I accept this is activity to be big for the community. I did sacrifice. I gave up on my blog and my claimed stuff. My ancestors in Brazil…they accumulate allurement me, is aggregate okay? I don’t appetite to anguish them,” she says. “Dov is a genius. He had a eyes for the company. It was magical. Dov is consistently so transparent, bright like water. He cares about bodies and it’s real. Nothing will change my mind.”
Designed by Ly Ngo.
["562.6"]
["562.6"]

["562.6"]

["562.6"]

["512.16"]