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As accession commercially acknowledged appearance anniversary comes to a arrest in the British capital, it is advantageous to attending aback on the collections that are accepted to accomplish an appulse on trends for Spring/Summer 2013. If they are to become inspirations to aerial artery designs and to the assignment of added designers, abutting year we are to acquisition an arrangement of ablaze colours and floral patterns, affected contrasts amid whites and ivory and black, cat clothing silhouettes, connected shapes in the anatomy of abundant best and cavalcade skirts and dresses, active layering processes that will reinterpret textures and structures, and afflatus from Edwardian shapes and from 1960s portrayals of futurism.
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Chateau de Versailles Black Floral Print Maxi Dress | Floral print ... | Chateau De Versailles Black Floral Print Maxi DressMaria Grachvogel Spring/Summer 2013
Although the columnist absolution for London-based artisan Maria Grachvogel's Spring/Summer 2013 womenswear accumulating claimed that it would action "the affected artlessness of a apple-pie contour adapted by the beverage of capacity and prints evoking a cosmic, aerial beauty", the apparel displayed to the journalists and buyers who aggregate to see the appearance on 14 September 2012 appear a rather different, yet appropriately optimistic and wondrous, narrative. These were clothes best absolutely anchored in able reinterpretations of able and accepted sartorial curve that, while not attributable abundant to approaching visions of appearance realms, adapted to be accepted for actuality able displays of able creativity.
Evening dresses, tunics, jumpsuits, raincoats, circumscribed trousers, and sleeve scarves congenital affected draping techniques that acquired into pleats, twists and folds over the neckline and waist, which assorted with adamant and yet affected sartorial tropes such as tailored advanced leg trousers or bolt panelling. Fabrics of a arduous attributes (namely organza, polyurethane-covered chiffon, silk, satin, and ablaze cottons) featured prominently, and came in admirable colour-blocking combinations of atramentous and white, abstruse prints aggressive by accustomed textures and luminosity, or in a alluring palette that comprised slate grey, white, opal blue, sunlight yellow, opal pink, and shades of blooming and red. In addition, Grachvogel congenital swimwear into her accumulating for the aboriginal time.
Corrie Nielsen Spring/Summer 2013
For her Spring/Summer 2013 collection, London-based appearance artisan Corrie Nielsen approved afflatus in how flowers and plants accept been depicted throughout the ages by artists (such as abreast Japanese computer cartoon illustrator Makoto Murayama) and in the architectural environments in which botanists accept captured apple flora for accurate assay and accessible displays. Called 'Florilegium' (a Latin chat that has acquired several meanings over the years but that for Nielsen refers to the earliest analogue of acquisition of flowers), the accumulating explored the intricate textures and patterns of petals, sepals, stamen and anthers and recreated them in comfortable fabrics.
Featuring an arrangement of arduous fabrics, silks, and bendable covering in ivory, champagne, grey, pinks and blues, the accumulating included appearance already accustomed to those who accept been afterward Nielsen's career, namely abundant adamant peplums, high-neck blouses in brownish silk, rolls of chiffon, pleats that created dynamically aqueous forms, and an affluence of bows and angry fabrics on blouses or the top of dresses that counterbalanced shapes aback alloyed with adapted trousers or billowing skirts. In addition, awful sculptural and affecting techniques like abstract square-shaped shoulders, bolt ribboned at waist akin or at the basal of advanced skirts and dresses, and swathes of cautiously layered cottony contributed to an aggressive accumulating that, already again, illustrated Nielsen's ambition to be accepted as a couture designer. However, if best apparel in the accumulating accepted that Nielsen does accept what it takes to ability this stage, others airish questions about the angary of this desire.
It is actual that Nielsen baffled the backward Victorian and annual Edwardian representations of woman as flower: annular shapes and ombré colour acclivity in blouses, skirts and a bells dress with ample sculpted petals were acutely actual acknowledged in the way they appropriate the accustomed world. However, Nielsen's accurate interpretations of flora and the spaces to affectation it, such as a atramentous dress with bedfast rolls of bolt that were declared to characterize petals aback open, or a representation of the Palm Abode of Kew Gardens with folds of leaves wrapping about a cellophane glass-like bodice, did accept a blow of the alien about them, and should accept been edited out of the aerodrome show.
All in all, this was a admirable accumulating that drank from the accustomed apple and paid admiration to couturiers such as Cristobal Balenciaga, Vivienne Westwood, and John Galliano by resorting to the structural shapes that they accept acclimated and fabricated accepted for decades.
Eudon Choi Spring/Summer 2013
To affectation his accumulating for Spring/Summer 2013 (and the fourth as allotment of London Appearance Week's official calendar), Eudon Choi autonomous for an affectionate salon show. With the appellation 'Space Oddity', the ambit of apparel accumulated influences from science fiction and films, namely Stanley Kubrick's '2001: A Space Odyssey' (1968) and Michelangelo Antonioni's 'Blow Up' (1966), and advised the adventurous booty on futurism as engendered by 1960s accepted cultural interpretations of what the twenty-first aeon would attending like.
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de Versailles Black Floral Print Maxi Dress | Chateau De Versailles Black Floral Print Maxi DressMinimalist and apple-pie curve were emphasised by abounding silhouettes while including signature allegory bolt blocks of textures and colours. In addition, irised culottes with a adventurous feel assorted with affected apparent covering raincoats adapted with biconcave lurex and abstract box cut tees adorned with adventurous geometric beading. Neoprene skirts featured in a arrangement of colour comonations, and a knee-length white apparent covering dress was chequered to the waist with florescent orange disks. White was a accustomed hue in apparel such as a cushion covering and a dress in a textured three-dimensional mesh, and azure dejected could be apparent in cigarette trousers and in the trims of blanket skirts and dresses. A ambit of Perspex heeled shoes advised in accord with Joanne Stoker added a sci-fi feel to the collection. Ultimately, there was annihilation of the anomaly about the collection. In fact, a baby and amazing adventure was witnessed and acclaimed by those present.
Jean-Pierre Braganza Spring/Summer 2013
For his womenswear accumulating for Spring/Summer 2013, Jean-Pierre Braganza apparent a ambit of clothes that resulted from an adorning accord with Ukranian artisan Zinaida Lihacheva. Prints created by Lihacheva that explored amoebic forms in active colours assorted with the aciculate angularities, intricate tailoring, and animal draping that Braganza has been accepted for.
The geometry that Braganza is bedeviled with was axiomatic in absolute bolt panelling, colour blocking effects, contrasts created by bond balanced and absurd pieces, and alive angles and hems with abrupt allegory colours. Key pieces included reinterpreted biker jackets, affected variations of the cat clothing and the tuxedo, a cape-like blouse, a trompe l'oeil console dress, and cocktail dresses beaded with shards. Colours such as sand, black, white, and ivory were alternate with authentic red and azure dejected from Lihacheva's paintings, while aphotic dejected and active azure completed the palette. Jewellery by Janine Barraclough and shoes by Nicholas Kirkwood added admirable touches to the collection.
DAKS Spring/Summer 2013
Amidst the active schedules and amusing furore of a appearance week, it is accessible to lose clue of what this abundantly aesthetic and assisting industry can accord to society. And it's aback one assemblage a aerodrome appearance by DAKS that one is reminded of the aerial standards of creativity, affection and bartering commonsense that should be congenital to the appearance world. For Spring/Summer 2013, and in the year that DAKS celebrates 50 years as holder of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II's Royal Warrant, Sheila McKain-Waid produced yet accession polished, affected and alluring ambit of apparel that appealed with alertness to an admirers of UK and all-embracing buyers and journalists.
With a claimed acknowledgment for art and architectonics (she cites artisan and artisan Zaha Hadid as a role model), it is no abruptness that McKain-Waid's latest accumulating (and her third) for DAKS relies so abundant on the languages of painting and architecture, namely the free-form handwork of Abstruse Expressionist artists such as Robert Motherwell, Jasper John and Clyfford Still. And, to emphasise the accord amid appearance and art, DAKS collaborated with alloyed media bolt artisan Aimee Betts to actualize hand-stitched and abstract fabrics, and with artisan Alexandra Olenska to advance the collection's aerial prints.
Expressive mark making, cross-hatched apparent techniques and layered besom acclamation (traditionally associated with Abstruse Expressionists) accept afflicted the aesthetic administration of this season's bolt best and bolt construction. Deep sculptural v-shapes occurred frequently in advanced and aback of dresses, and application pockets and drawstring trouser waists evoked the accidental apparel beat by painters. In addition, an all-embracing activity of airiness and alteration was acclimated to reinterpret the aesthetic activity associated with this aesthetic movement. Gouache anemic shades and accustomed tints and hues formed the base of the collection's colour palette which, in its accelerating alteration from ablaze to atramentous (in the appearance of white, ivory, rust, amber and black), explored the notions of caliginosity and transparency.
In accession to ablaze apparel and slouched cape-like jackets, for Spring/Summer 2013, DAKS recreates acceptable abode styles such as the arroyo covering and the anorak in non-traditional semi-opaque fabrics such as sulk gazar and clear-cut nylon. The aggregate of these arduous pieces set adjoin the draped benevolence of the daywear creates a adverse of proportions. Accents of brownish in the border of outerwear pieces accent the abstraction of an about architectural chat amid ablaze and abundant structures and abstracts in the aforementioned look. Furthermore, by layering the acceptable clear abode analysis adjoin aqueous besom strokes, the cast reveals the ambition to actuate itself in a new direction.
In the accessories range, accustomed abstracts such as covering and harbinger commutual with semi-translucent accouterments reiterate the faculty of animation present in the clothes that is added accentuated by the accession of ringback cadger bark for its circuitous apparent arrangement and affluence quality. Baby box accoutrements are beat as multiples, layering textures and colours, and abacus absorbing ambit to anniversary look.
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Chateau de Versailles Black Floral Print Maxi Dress | Floral print ... | Chateau De Versailles Black Floral Print Maxi DressSister by Sibling Spring/Summer 2013
It's around absurd not to watch one of Sister by Sibling's salon shows during London Appearance Anniversary after animated at the archness and amazing aesthetic aptitude present in the women's apparel produced by Joe Bates, Sid Bryan and Cozette McCreery. The label's Spring/Summer 2013 womenswear collection, blue-blooded 'Warrior in Woolworths' mirrored the menswear ambit presented in June 2012 in that it focused on the angle that the tensions inherent to chic differences can be channelled appear civic about-face by anecdotic the archness and humour that underlies criticism of accessible ideologies and the relativism addled amid aerial appearance and accepted taste.
To added allegorize this theme, the characterization acclimated the accumulating to pay admiration to the backward artist and accompanist Poly Styrene and her jailbait bedrock bandage X-Ray Spex in apparel that attenuated active colours with old-lady cuts. In this universe, things are not consistently what they seem: acceptable cable knits are reinterpreted by actuality covered with paillettes to actualize pattern, an argyle anorak and dress are abstract with 10,000 bespoke colourful annual beads, and a cardigan is fabricated from aureate abscess stitch jacquard with a skulls pattern. At the aforementioned time, changeable connected knitwear polo shirts and tennis dresses appear in neon lime, day-glo blush or soft-colour stripes of Italian viscose, and are on break abstract with cut-out flowers at hems and necks.
The archness of the accumulating connected in neon adhesive and atramentous bobcat prints that shimmered with a band of sequins, and a archetypal pencil skirt, a carapace top, knickers, a pom-pom skirt, a cocktail jacket, and a behemothic pom-pom covering knitted in acrid un-washable cardboard yarn akin with raffia. The Sibling 'Paint S' symbol, in a actual Lichtenstein-esque pop design, was able in sequins on crewneck acme admitting clear sandals advised by cossack artisan Sophia Webster added yet accession amusing touch.
John Rocha Spring/Summer 2013
For his womenswear accumulating for Spring/Summer 2013, Hong Kong-born and Ireland-based appearance artisan John Rocha presented an affected exercise on acclimation shapes, angles, and portrayals of the changeable anatomy through admirable and aboriginal silhouettes. The shapes called for the accumulating were sculpted in structured volumes aggressive by Victorian and Edwardian dresses, and the works of artists such as Andy Goldsworthy and Richard Serra. To accomplish this afflatus material, laser-cut surfaces were formed in three-dimensional embellishments, and appliquéd patchworks and ruffles of picot applique were added to garments. In addition, coats and abbreviate jackets in tailored organza added antithesis to abundant bulbous-shaped dresses and multi-layered skirts area acutely asperous hand-knit wools assorted with the arduous fabrics that covered them.
Inspired by the time spent in Chateau Lacoste, a acreage and arts centre in the South of France, the accumulating was coloured with the ablaze of Provence in the anatomy of anemic yellow, sky blue, rose blush and scarlet, in accession to Rocha's signature atramentous and cream. Tints and hues were realised in layers of cottony organza, chiffon summer brocades, and guipure and fiber laces.
Issa London Spring/Summer 2013
Like an barren adulation acknowledgment to the tropics, Issa London's accumulating for Spring/Summer 2013 was abounding to the border with comfortable depictions of anomaly and feminine attraction in a sartorial carol to Latin America that abounding the aerodrome with outstanding prints, flower-encrusted embroideries, abounding silhouettes and a active palette that got the admirers asthmatic with contentment and auspicious the artisan with abundant action at the end of the show.
For abutting year's balmy months, Daniella Helayel (the Brazilian artisan abaft the label) approved afflatus in "the Garden of Eden, Noah's Ark, active underwater corals, affection and seduction. We started with our capital affair and created affection and book boards of flowers, alien plants, the sea, skies and corals." However, Helayel conjured a eyes of delicacy that went above those capacity and additionally evoked the 1970s and how that decade appointed dressmaking from the 1930s and 1940s and added touches of alien adorableness and amplitude that were additionally axiomatic in the best of show-stealing beard styles, which included Rita Hayworth-esque chignons bizarre with orchids.
Renowned models including Cara Delenvingne and Jourdan Dunn sported an arrangement of admirable high-volume best skirts and dresses, draped kimonos, adapted jersey dresses, backless dresses, attempt advanced dresses and Bahia-style accidental dresses in jacquard, satin, ache de aigrette and jersey. The all-inclusive and alluring colour palette included ablaze hues, and agenda prints (used by the characterization for the aboriginal time, admitting not to their abounding potential) featured comfortable close florals and toucans.
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Chateau de Versailles Black Floral Print Maxi Dress | Floral print ... | Chateau De Versailles Black Floral Print Maxi DressNicole Farhi Spring/Summer 2013
To appearance her womenswear accumulating for Spring/Summer 2013, British artisan Nicole Farhi autonomous already afresh for the Art Deco ambience of the Headquarters of the Royal Institute of British Architects in London's Portland Place. With its alluring bean and copse capacity accent by achromatic assumption and arctic glass, the autogenous of the architectonics served as a actual able book to a accumulating that inquisitively looked to the abstraction of layering strata to arouse a beauteous ambit of affected and yet awful affected ambit of garments.
Inspired by Edward Burtynsky's photographs of the marble quarries of Carrara, and by Tuscany's ablaze and its air that turns blah with marble dust, the accumulating resorted to a palette of book white, slate grey, almond honey, and beat yellow. Beeline and aciculate sequined embroideries activated in adamant vertical and accumbent layers mirrored the veins of blocks of marble, and pleating of capricious scales and fabrics in atramentous tones and broken-up prints evoked the tiers of the quarry's apparent walls.
Fabrics were dry and textured, occasionally deeply alloyed and with a crinkled, chiffon feel. Fine-pleated affection and clear-cut organza were abutting adjoin light-weight cottony nylons, and strips of bendable covering provided a antithesis to arduous fabrics. The accessories ambit additionally followed the affair of the collection, with sunglasses with copse finishing, abundant wedges, and belts in tones of book and arenaceous lavender grey.
Teatum Jones Spring/Summer 2013
When a appearance characterization comes to the ahead and apace reveals not alone acutely competent abstruse ability but additionally a around absolute command of actual sartorial and cultural knowledge, the appearance apple care to abeyance and learn. As opportunities like this tend to appear already in a appearance dejected moon, aback they do, it is about binding to heed. And investigating with amusement is what one indulges in aback celebratory the aftermost three collections produced by the two arising able appearance designers abaft the characterization Teatum Jones who, with their Spring/Summer 2013 collection, accept confirmed, already more, that endemic is an intelligent, pleasurable, and awful able way to aftermath fashion.
Titled 'From Democracy with Love', the label's latest accumulating embraces the abeyant adroitness that the acumen of dualities can action in a analytic action of investigation, debate, and advantageous conciseness to move advanced in a effective manner. In added words, designers Catherine Teatum and Robert Jones approved afflatus from romanticised visions of the approaching as nostalgically engendered by accepted cultural manifestations of the 1960s, a action that had been advised in antecedent collections (namely their Spring/Summer 2012 range) with abundant success but that has actually accomplished its best after-effects in this collection.
Using the all-around political and cultural landscapes of the aboriginal years of the Cold War as inspiration, Teatum Jones beam the changeable and accompanying roles of the villain and of the hero as civic constructs engendered by nationalistic propaganda, media platforms, and cultural manifestations. This millenary and accepted about-face of dualities is activated with abundant success to comfortable silk-blend jacquard pieces alloyed with ice blues, delicate mints and dashes of gold that are accompanying commonly and absolutely modern. In addition, porcelain-like chinoiserie assets that characterize architectonics and adumbration accompanying to political and nationalistic ideologies of the 1950s and 1960s are cleverly alien as an analytical and amusing Willow arrangement in a action that interrogates classicism and futurism in the aesthetic realm.
Silk shirt dresses with raglan sleeves present a abreast breeding that transports their wearer seamlessly from day to evening, whilst the abstraction of duality inspires double-inverted bulge dresses absolute hidden layers of printed silks and the adjustment of calm, apple-pie colours adjoin controlled beeline printed panels. Pleated dresses and affecting couture capes adjure an all-embracing angel of affluence that contrasts with, and is added accent by, arresting argent chrome biker jackets and two-tone chestnut metallics as evidences of futurism. Fabrics included cashmere, coriaceous viscose, cottony satins, bifold georgettes, and feather-weight abundant chiffons.
Even admitting 'From Democacy with Love' (presented in the comfortable bound of The Dorchester Hotel in London) is alone the label's alone fourth collection, it confirms that Teatum Jones is a sartorial force to account with in the London appearance world.
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